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In this month's Cook's Illustrated, there's an article entitled "Game-Changing Turkey Gravy," which was about their attempt to make a great tasting gravy, and a gravy that could be made totally in advance, didn't require drippings and a variation that could accommodate dietary restrictions. It was a recipe I copied ("Our Favorite Turkey Gravy"), as it would not only be useful if making gravy when smoking a turkey, but I love learning a new way of doing things. And of course, you can add drippings to the recipe if you have them. If any of you want the whole turkey gravy recipe for your files, just let me know and I will post it.
But what REALLY fascinated me was a sidebar they had about how to build gravy with better flavor in an entirely new way. It's not only easier to do than browning the neck and giblets prior to using, which is what I always do, but online they encouraged one to use boxed chicken broth rather than homemade turkey stock in their gravy recipe. A man asked this question and they said although the homemade turkey stock would probably make great gravy, "it may be thick and sticky/tacky gravy due to the excess gelatin and require thinning," so they go with the store-bought broth and save the homemade stock for a recipe where it can really shine.
Anyway, the concept they wrote about was really fascinating as were the pictures of the insides of a LeCruset Dutch oven with a white bottom: the pot where the giblet mixture was simmered rather than seared had an unbelievable coating of dark brown fond. I'm definitely going to try this the next time I make gravy. READ BELOW:
How We Built Gravy with Better Flavor
Sidebar, November/December 2018 Cook's Illustrated
The rich turkey flavor in our gravy boils down to one critical component: fond, the flavor-packed brown bits and tacky layer of evaporated juices that form on the bottom of the pan when meat or vegetables are browned. The brown color is a sign that the proteins and sugars have undergone the Maillard reaction and transformed into hundreds of new flavor compounds that can add terrific savory depth when the fond is incorporated into a gravy or another sauce.
Most gravy recipes build fond by searing turkey parts such as the neck or giblets, but we came up with an approach that’s more effective. Instead of initially searing the parts, we simmer them (plus turkey fat and skin for extra flavor) in chicken broth until the liquid evaporates. Simmering actually extracts the juices and fat much more thoroughly than searing does. The proof is visible on the bottom of the pot: Once the liquid evaporates, the entire bottom of the vessel (we use a Dutch oven for maximum surface area) is coated with a gorgeous browned layer of fond.
But what REALLY fascinated me was a sidebar they had about how to build gravy with better flavor in an entirely new way. It's not only easier to do than browning the neck and giblets prior to using, which is what I always do, but online they encouraged one to use boxed chicken broth rather than homemade turkey stock in their gravy recipe. A man asked this question and they said although the homemade turkey stock would probably make great gravy, "it may be thick and sticky/tacky gravy due to the excess gelatin and require thinning," so they go with the store-bought broth and save the homemade stock for a recipe where it can really shine.
Anyway, the concept they wrote about was really fascinating as were the pictures of the insides of a LeCruset Dutch oven with a white bottom: the pot where the giblet mixture was simmered rather than seared had an unbelievable coating of dark brown fond. I'm definitely going to try this the next time I make gravy. READ BELOW:
How We Built Gravy with Better Flavor
Sidebar, November/December 2018 Cook's Illustrated
The rich turkey flavor in our gravy boils down to one critical component: fond, the flavor-packed brown bits and tacky layer of evaporated juices that form on the bottom of the pan when meat or vegetables are browned. The brown color is a sign that the proteins and sugars have undergone the Maillard reaction and transformed into hundreds of new flavor compounds that can add terrific savory depth when the fond is incorporated into a gravy or another sauce.
Most gravy recipes build fond by searing turkey parts such as the neck or giblets, but we came up with an approach that’s more effective. Instead of initially searing the parts, we simmer them (plus turkey fat and skin for extra flavor) in chicken broth until the liquid evaporates. Simmering actually extracts the juices and fat much more thoroughly than searing does. The proof is visible on the bottom of the pot: Once the liquid evaporates, the entire bottom of the vessel (we use a Dutch oven for maximum surface area) is coated with a gorgeous browned layer of fond.