Today is
Barbecue Shrimp Day. Here's what a local food critic (the longest one still publishing constantly since the early 70s, Tom Fitzmorris, a/k/a Mr. Food) had to say about it, which I thought you might like to read:
"Today is Barbecue Shrimp Day. It won't be a national celebration, because a) no other part of the country has shrimp as fine as the white shrimp we have right now and 2) no other place understands that "barbecue shrimp" is a misnomer. There's no smoke, grill, or thick sauce. Instead, they're cooked with a sauce Richard Collin [deceased well thought of local food critic, though he wasn't kind] once described as "all the butter in the world, and half the pepper." A little garlic, Worcestershire, and paprika are in there, too.
The dish was invented at Pascal's Manale in 1954, when a customer asked Pascal Radosta to duplicate a shrimp dish he had in Chicago. The resulting dish wasn't like the one this guy had found, but he liked it even better. Barbecue shrimp soon became the signature dish at Manale's, where most tables include at least one order of the things.
It's essential for barbecue shrimp to be made with large, intact, unpeeled shrimp (about 10-20 to the pound), with heads, shells, tails, and everything else still there. Much flavor comes from the juices and fats in the head. Whole shrimp this size, drenched in sauce, are a mess to eat. Especially if you insist on peeling the shrimp. (I just pull the heads off and eat the rest, shells and all-although I do not recommend this to you.)
Chef Gerard Maras made a major improvement in barbecue shrimp in the 1980s, during his tenure at Mr. B's. His trick: whisking in the butter at the end of the cooking process. Emeril Lagasse developed the only good peeled version of barbecue shrimp, making a very intense stock out of the heads and shells, and incorporating it back into the butter sauce. It's a great idea, but a lot of work.
Every restaurant has its own version of barbecue shrimp, but to my tastes, the simpler the recipe, the better they are."
Here's the picture Tom included:
I can't believe he eats the shells but he does! I agree with him that the City's best are still at Pascal's Manale (locals call it Manale's; only the BBQ Shrimp is good, along with their always cold raw oysters) with Mr. B's in the French Quarter excellent as well. Tourists love them, too, even though more would order them if you didn't have to peel them (you get a bib put on you by the waiter at most restaurants that sell them).